Named after the eponymous Hidden Ridge Vineyard, whose slope reaches an astounding 55% in some places, this is a wine of both pedigree and exuberance--not an easy balance to successfully pull off. It saw 20 months in oak, 85% of which was new and French, and was bottled without being fined or filtered. As such, it retains an astounding range of character and expressivity, and, though it’s still just at the beginning of what will be a long, exciting evolution, it is already a joy to drink.
Hidden Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon “55% Slope” 2007, Sonoma County
This starts off with a fabulously expressive nose of dark berry fruit, blueberry compote, and sage, as well as something that reminds me of roasted green bell pepper. On the palate, it shows sweet black fruit, dripping-ripe plum, and high-cocoa chocolate enrobed around beautifully made blackberry liqueur, all of which, on the finish, turn spicier, with glimmers of ancho and paprika. Dusty tannins, a sense of minerality, and wonderful balance imply that this will evolve quite nicely in the cellar. Drink now (with air) through 2025.