Monday Catch-Up


Just a quick Monday update on reviews and columns that ran last week, plus my wine of the day.

To start, the excellent new “Hungry In” episode is now available, this one from Austin starring the charming Tolly Moseley. If you’ve ever wondered what bacon ice cream looks and tastes like, this is a must-watch episode.

At CityDrinks, on CityEats, I wrote about a fantastic artichoke cocktail I became fairly addicted to in Italy two weeks ago. With the change in weather so pronounced this week, the Cynar Spritz is a pitch-perfect evocation of autumn’s arrival.

My Wine of the Week on The Good Life Report was the new expression of the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve. New Chef de Cave Thierry Roset has added a greater sense of linearity and “tension” without losing the gorgeous brioche-like richness that fans of the wine have always loved so much.

On John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet, my column on sweet wines ran in last week’s edition. It’s worth remembering that these aren’t just for dessert. Alongside cheese or other savory dishes, a great sticky can really sing...often better than it does next to sugary plates.

Also, as part of his much-awaited annual listing, John Mariani has revealed his Esquire list of the best new restaurants in America for 2012. Hearty congratulations to Philadelphia chef Kevin Sbraga, whose eponymous restaurant is easily one of the best around.

Finally, my wine of the day today is the Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Graach Josephshofer (Monopole) Riesling Kabinett 2009 from Germany’s Mosel. It boasts deep, generous aromas of brown-sugar roasted peaches, lemon pastry shell, granola, hints of petrol, warm honey, and flowers. Taut flavors of kumquat, honeydew, lemon, savory apricot, spice, and slate are firmed up by vivid acidity This is a dryer style, and all the more regal for it.