Article Update, and German Highlights


Le Bec Fin, perhaps Philadelphia’s most famous restaurant, re-opened this past summer under the new ownership of Nicolas Fanucci. It’s a brand new era in the history of the storied temple of haute cuisine, and a restaurant well worth visiting. My review is in this week’s edition of John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet, linked up here.

Also this past week, I took my life into my hands and reviewed my mother’s Thanksgiving dinner for Philadelphia Weekly, linked up here. Despite death threats from the chef, it all turned out well in the end--my mother proved her mettle in the kitchen once again, and I’m still here to tell the tale.

And from Uruguay, a very nice article appeared in Cipetur, a magazine focusing on the tourism industry, about the visit my colleagues and I made there in November. It’s linked up right here.

As far as tasting the past few days, I’ve found myself popping the corks on a number of crisp German whites lately, perhaps in response to the unseasonably warm weather we’ve been enjoying here on the East Coast. My tasting notes for the three highlights are below:

Schloss Saarstein Pinot Blanc 2008, Mosel
Transporting aromas of warm apple and peach, lifted by hints of spun sugar and white-blossomed flowers, lead to flavors of orange pith, nectarine, crunchy apple, hints of hard peach, and apricot. These are steely with minerality and a perfectly calibrated acidity. The finish sees a bit of slate, but is softened up with flowers and almond skin. Great presence on the palate, but never too weighty. Highly recommended.

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. Von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Trocken 2008, Pfalz
Aromas of lemon, apricot, and honey are clean and clear, and joined by slate and a touch of orange blossom in the background. On the palate, flavors of lemon and lemon oil, apple, green papaya, and mineral are well-delineated yet possess a lovely roundness in the mouth. Well-made, and an excellent food wine.

Maximin Grunhauser Riesling 2009, Mosel
Evocative lemon curd and mashed apricot aromas with hints of spice and warm pastry keep you returning to the glass for another sniff. Distinct flavors of green apple, lemon, and lime are vivid with acid and minerality, and resolve in a finish of autumn orchard fruit. Well-cut and defined. Drink now - 2025.