Wine Review: 2009 Cobb Pinot Noirs

Cobb Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2009, Sonoma Coast
Aromas of herbs, horseradish, shiso, cranberry, and mineral. Almost like a Gevrey-Chambertin in the horseradish-spice department, but so much more elegant and feminine. Hints of cardamom and licorice, too, as well as black peppercorn florality. On the palate, this boasts sweeter fruit than I expected, but it’s still quite savory, with notably pretty notes of licorice, smoked twigs, cranberry, red raspberry, mineral, spice, violets and roses, as well as a subtle note of orange oil. This is wonderfully balanced, linear, elegant, and all together beautifully made. Very serious wine. Drink now - 2026.


Cobb Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 2009, Sonoma Coast
A transfixing nose, lithe and lively, with high-toned cherry, floral notes, minerality, hints of cola, and spice. On the palate, this is sweeter than the nose implies, with utterly gorgeous cherry fruit, spring-fresh flowers, balancing notes of sous bois, sweet baking and Indian spice, and amazing minerality driving right through the center. This is tongue-coating despite all its elegance, filigreed yet muscular, and wholly confident.  Drink now - 2028+.


Cobb Pinot Noir Jack Hill Vineyard 2009, Sonoma Coast
High-toned aromas of spice-tinged cherry, joined by bright raspberry and rose petals. These lead to a fabulously silky palate dripping with root beer, dark cherry and cherry skin, Indian spice, forest floor, and character to spare. Drink now - 2026+.


Cobb Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard 2009, Sonoma Coast

Tart cherry aromas with appealing herbal edges lead to a taut, energetic palate speaking of cherry pipe tobacco, toasted fennel, and slightly exotic spice. This is a wine of serious length, style, balance, and concentration, and while it will age gracefully for well more than a decade, it’s difficult to resist right now.